“Introduction”

Driving home from my very first training session - with my very first dog - it became clear that it wasn’t my very willing dog that needed the training, it was me. Training the dog was going to be relatively easy.
I’ve since read several books on gundog training – some better than others.
One thing that they seem to have in common, however, is that they all seem to talk about all types of gundog.
As interesting as this may be, I found it slightly distracting.
I then realised that the foundation and novice training of any Spaniel, HPR or Retriever was very much the same.
As you progress, you’ll realise that there are obvious similarities - and just as many significant differences.

The same can be said about the different strains of each breed.
There are many similarities between dogs from Show backgrounds and Working backgrounds, but, there are some very significant differences.
The most important of these is their relative speed.
If I likened a “Show” bred dog to a luxury family saloon, and a “Working” bred dog to a high-powered sports car, perhaps you’d understand.
To achieve success in competition a faster dog is desirable – and possibly easier to train – maybe – maybe not.

Good Working dogs are bred from long lines of good Working dogs.
Many of the parents will probably have been Field Trial Champions.
If you intend to get involved in competitions, then a dog from this sort of background would seem to be an obvious choice.
If it’s your wish to train your dog to pick up at your local Shoot, then many Show dogs can – with patience – be trained to do the job very adequately. They’re very unlikely to be as fast and as spectacular as a Working dog but, as with cars, there’s a certain “logic” in learning on a slower vehicle.
There’s been a recent resurgence in demand for “dual purpose” types.
Although I sometimes think that “dual non-purpose” would be a better description, there’re many that do a very competent job on a Shoot - and in the lower levels of competition. If you’re just a “smiling amateur” like me, then these can be a good choice - but if you think that you’re assured of getting the best of both worlds, you could be very disappointed.

I wouldn’t presume to suggest that our way of caring for a dog is the only way, but it’s worked - for us – for more than twenty years.

Maybe that’s the secret – to find a way - that works for your dog - and you.

One of the other things that frustrated me about many of the books that I’ve read, is that they’re long on theory and the author’s “reminiscences”, but short on practical “how to” advice.

I’ve tried very hard to be practical.

Have a glance at all the exercises before you start training a puppy.
 Apart from the fact that you need to be ahead of the game, you’ll appreciate that the suggestions in “Puppy Training” are “lite” versions of the main exercises.

Training is a process of building – brick by brick and layer by layer.
To achieve this - it’s important to take each exercise step by step.
If your foundations are weak - it’ll show up when you least want it to.
A dog proficient in the basics will work confidently – and so will you.
Without that confidence it’ll move hesitantly – and so will you.
Keep returning to reinforce those foundations – for both your sakes.

Throughout, I stress the importance of “success”.
There’s absolutely no doubt in my mind that a dog thrives on success.
To help achieve this, you’ll note that with each exercise, I’ve tried my best to minimise the chances of failure.

• Preventing problems is so much easier than trying to solve them. 
• Take command and try to think ahead - try to anticipate what you’re going to do if things don’t go according to “Plan A”,
• Stay calm and enjoy it – but concentrate. If you become flustered and uncertain, just imagine how your poor dog will be feeling.
• Dogs become mentally tired and confused – long before they become physically tired.
• Don’t overdo it. 2 x 10 minute sessions per day are far more productive than 1 x 20 minute session.
• Play 2 minutes – train 6 minutes – play 2 minutes.
• These play sessions are important – particularly with a puppy.
• The first relaxes your puppy, making it much more receptive to your next “game”, and the second sends it home feeling good and looking forward to the next session.
• If you find it difficult to fit in 20 minutes training, try to incorporate 5 or 10 minutes training as part of your morning walk.
• Get your dog fit and well before starting training.
• Before even starting the course, a few weeks of good long walks are a step – or three – in the right direction.
• An unfit or unwell dog will be unable to concentrate.
• Included under this heading could be a dog that’s just been fed, or tired - or thirsty – in season - or needs to relieve itself.
• Don’t attempt to train in “uncomfortable” weather – very hot, very windy or in heavy rain. You won’t feel relaxed or able to give of your best – and neither will your dog.
• Gundogs cope very well - in all weathers – when they know what they’re meant to be doing.
• Remember - one step at a time.
• Really try to make a point of ending each session on a “high note”.
• If you’re not succeeding with a particular exercise -then go back to something it knows and does well – praise the dog - and end there.
• If you’re really not making progress at all, it’s probably because you’re trying to do too much – too often.
• Have a break for a week or two.
• Attend training classes, but pay a visit before you join.
• The atmosphere should be happy and relaxed with no more than six dogs per trainer.
• Any more than that and you’ll be unlikely to get value for money.
• Rather like any school – small classes work better.
• Training classes should be great fun and much can be learnt by listening and watching other handlers – if only how not to do it.
• These classes also provide an excellent opportunity to introduce your dog to gunfire – under strictly controlled conditions - when it’s ready.
• This is something that really needs to be done by an experienced trainer.
• If done by an over-enthusiastic and inexperienced novice, it can very easily result in your dog becoming “gun shy”.
• You need a special type of patience – to make haste – slowly.
• You need to be able to laugh at yourself – never at your dog.
• After a brilliant bunker shot, a famous golfer once said …
   
• “Luck? – It seems that the more I practice, the luckier I get”.
   
• In the case of your dog  – remember – 20mins per day is the maximum.

• If you understand all that - then training becomes quite easy – honest!

………………

And finally, please understand these last two points ….

• Don’t use “Strong Arm” / “Electric Collar” tactics - they don’t work.
• All that happens is that your dog will cower, be terrified of putting a foot wrong, be unhappy and dread the sound of your voice – but sadly – have to depend on you for food - and shelter – and a bed.
  
                           On a much more “savoury” note ….
   
• Some people say that using treats as a reward undermines your authority as “Pack Alpha” – you’re effectively bribing the dog.
  I disagree.
  We all enjoy a reward or bonus if we do well, and, with the prospect of earning a reward – we might even try a little harder.
  In my opinion, treats can be used - certainly in the early stages of teaching an exercise – as an instant reward – which can just as instantly be withheld in the event of the dog “playing up” or not trying.
  I never leave the house without a handful of small biscuits - in my LEFT hand pocket.
  I suggest LEFT hand pocket, because that’s where we want the dog to think that heaven is - next to you – by your LEFT leg - and next to the treat store!